The Silver Spring Penguin

REVIEW — Here’s a little archaeology to chew on: Domesticated chickens did not arrive in the New World on the Mayflower. They didn’t cluck their way across the Atlantic on the Nina, Pinta or Santa Maria, either. Suck it, Columbus.

Photo: Lizbeth's broiled chicken, no thanks to Columbus. Credit: J. Deseo/SSP.

Instead, scientists believe the chicken — that plump, succulent fowl — came to South America from Polynesia long before the Europeans did, sometime around the 14th century. That means indigenous people in the Andes were cooking a mean rotisserie chicken while western Europeans were trying to beat the plague.

Those are the breaks. But it goes a long way to explain why South American (particularly Peruvian) roasters are so damn tasty. Centuries of working the bird, perfecting its cooking time, and honing the spices down to a science have paid off big time for modern restaurateurs.

To some extent, that culinary skill has transferred to the Salvadoran-run kitchen at Lizbeth’s Cafe. Keywords: to some extent.

On one hand (wing?), Lizbeth’s charcoal-broiled chicken really works. Its simple seasoning — nothing more than salt and pepper — allows one to enjoy the bird’s natural flavors. The skin remains crisp (not crunchy) and doesn’t get gooey or droopy with the weight of caramelized sugars. It’s the meat that stays sweet, with hints of corn and whatever that bird ate before its demise.

On the other hand, the kitchen’s timing could use a little work. During one visit, the dark meat was a bit dry, a sign of overcooking. Still, the thigh and drumstick managed to keep most of their spring. (White meat wasn’t sampled.)

For $6, one can score a quarter-chicken (either white or dark meat) with one side and a salad. For an extra buck, one can swipe that salad for another side dish (above). Do it, because the sides are freakin’ awesome.

Photo: Lizbeth's pupusas, no thanks to the Peruvians. Credit: J. Deseo/SSP.

And not because they carry layer upon layer of flavor, but because their simple prep really makes the ingredients sing. The black beans and rice are extremely good. The beans have a light, smoky flavor that plays so well against the mildly sweet rice. Best of all, the dish is beautifully fluffy, which allows one to enjoy it without feeling bloated (not for a while, anyway).

Also ranking high on the taste-o-meter are Lizbeth’s fried plantains. Plump slices of the starchy banana are fried without getting greasy, yet manage to stay moist and sweet. They’re goooood.

Solo side dishes are $2 for small orders, $3 for large ones.

The kitchen also makes a mean pupusa (above, right), that classic Central American street food. For $1.50, one can score deliciously ooey-gooey cheese or bold, smoky red beans smacked between two corn cakes and lightly fried. Each pupusa comes with a thin, unremarkable tomato-based sauce that one can go without, and cabbage tossed with vinaigrette (not sampled).

On the down side, the beef in Lizbeth’s steak tacos ($7) is uber-chewy and tough. Dry, mealy corn tortillas amplify that problem. Skip it.

The Georgia Avenue storefront also has that greasy spoon (taza de manteca) feel to it. Garish fluorescent lighting, fast food-style bench seating, and a view of the strip mall across the street are as far as Lizbeth’s goes to provide ambiance. At least it’s clean.

Food is prepared to order, so expect to wait ten minutes before digging in.

Lizbeth’s Cafe, 8215 Georgia Ave, Silver Spring, (301) 650-0066.