The Silver Spring Penguin

I spent this summer drinking white wines almost exclusively. For hot Saturday evenings on the deck with friends, there’s nothing more refreshing than a cold Viognier or Sauvignon blanc.

Photo: Chateau de Porcieux 2008. Credit: E. Robbins for The Penguin

But as summer gives way to autumn, I find myself in the transitional state of a great rosé — France’s 2008 Chateau de Pourcieux Côtes de Provence.

Before the snide “white Zinfandel” comments fly, let me just say this: Chateau de Pourcieux is not the overly-sweet blush wine that Sutter Home pioneered in the 1980s, or like the many jug producers that followed. Those wines ruined the good name of rosé for years.

The Chateau de Pourcieux is a blend of 50-percent Syrah, 30-percent Grenache, and 20-percent Cinsault. After being pressed, the grapes’ juices keep in contact with their skins just long enough to imbue the liquid with a beautiful pink hue.

There’s a light aroma that’s soft on the nose, and the first sip pops with strawberry, pear, and a crisp apple tartness. But just as the sweetness builds, it gives way to a clean, dry finish that balances perfectly the sugars up front.

The wine paired well with sharp and creamy cheeses — particularly a good, extra-sharp cheddar or a full-bodied bleu. It also did well with saltier foods like cured meats and shaved Parmiggiano-Reggiano. With its crisp acidity, it would also be a great accompaniment to spicy Asian foods, but let’s not forget this wine is fabulous all by itself.

Keep a few bottles in the fridge for these last lukewarm days of summer. And at $14.50, it’s well worth the price of admission.

Chateau de Pourcieux Côtes de Provence (2008), purchased for $14.50 at the Montgomery County department of liquor control retail store (8715 Colesville Rd).

Eric Robbins is editor of ThayerAvenue.com. He lives in East Silver Spring.