The Silver Spring Penguin

Photo: Burger on the bar at Eggspectation. Credit: J. Deseo/SSP.

REVIEW — Burgers are like eggs: Undercook ‘em and they retain some moisture; overcook ‘em and they’re chewy like rawhide.

That’s how things roll at Eggspectation, the noisy Downtown Silver Spring restaurant that handles omelettes and hamburgers on the same griddle and with the same culinary technique.

On one occassion, the bacon and cheddar cheeseburger ($12) was ordered cooked to medium, thus producing a tender, juicy and somewhat bloody beef patty. The meat’s inherent sweetness trickled down the sides of the toasted kaiser bun, soaking its nooks and crannies with a deep pink juice that mooed.

The beef’s rich flavor was nicely balanced with two salty pieces of bacon and ooey-gooey American (not cheddar) cheese. If one doesn’t mind the sight of blood or the threat of E. coli, this medium burger is good eats.

But during another visit, the same meal was cooked medium well, thus producing a dry, bland burger. The beef patty, which lost all pinkness and moisture, was no tastier than what one would find in a Big Mac. It muted any smoky flavor the crisp bacon may have contributed. The rubbery cheese was just there for looks.

Bottom line: Eggspectation swings both ways with the burgers. Plan accordingly.

The restaurant has eight burgers from which to choose, including two made with chicken patties (not sampled). Most of them are served with lettuce, sliced tomato and sweet red onions, which can be saving graces when the beef patties are cooked beyond flavor.

Each burger order also comes with french fries that are crisp on the outside, hardy on the inside, and lightly seasoned with salt and pepper. These fries won’t let diners forget they’re potatoes.

One can score a table on the patio, where service is slow and the squeal of kiddies running through the Silver Plaza fountain is right freakin’ there. For quicker (though no less noisy) service, take that burger on the bar.

Eggspectation, 923 Ellsworth Dr, Silver Spring, (301) 585-1700.