The Silver Spring Penguin

Photo: The Rio Grande burger at Parkway Deli. Credit: J. Deseo/SSP.

REVIEW — In the past, I sang praise to the Parkway Deli, that bustling diner tucked away on Grubb Road near Rock Creek Gardens. I may have called it “a sacred shrine to Saint Reuben, patron saint of sandwiches” or something like that. Nothing too dramatic.

But if the Parkway is holy ground to sandwich lovers, then it’s rapture for burger pilgrims. Eliminating all the culinary frou-frou, Parkway’s burgers are big, beefy and freakin’ tasty. Just schedule the angioplasty ahead of time.

The $8 Rio Grande burger (above) is a slightly greasy yet utterly glorious mouthful. The beef patty (ordered medium for this review) is seasoned lightly, which allows the meat’s rich flavor and sweet juices to hit with full impact. The melted Monterrey jack cheese draped over the patty is bland but adds a pleasant velvety texture.

On top of that are four — yeah, people, I said FOUR — strips of crisp bacon that give a beautifully smoky, slightly salty kick to the burger. And its snap is a great contrast to the buttery beef and cheese. Slap all of that plus fresh lettuce and tomato between two sides of a toasted kaiser roll, and that’s good eats.

For extraneous fat, the Rio Grande burger arrives with chipotle-accented mayonaisse on the side. It’s got a sweet, tangy flavor that isn’t all that bad. But given the burger’s already high cholesterol content, shmearing mayo onto the burger actually gives the sandwich too fatty a flavor. Take it or leave it.

Each burger platter (there are seven to choose from) comes with shoestring french fries and access to the deli’s small yet impressive pickle bar. And while patrons might wait for a table, service is generally quick and pleasant.

And don’t be put off by the tight parking lot in front of the restaurant. There’s plenty of parking behind the building.

Parkway Deli and Restaurant, 8317 Grubb Rd, Silver Spring, (301) 587-1427.