I’m a Brooklyn Penguin by birth, but back in the day, I used to kick it in a part of Queens, NY, called Astoria. Clumped beneath the elevated N line and sitting along an East River channel known as Hell’s Gate, Astoria is the epicenter of Greek-American life in New York City.
You want the best souvlaki in town? Go to Astoria. You want dolmades and garlic-stuffed olives by the pound? Go to Astoria. You want a plate of kokoretsi and manestra, with a chocolate mouse for dessert? Go to Astoria. Opa!
Of course, a schlep to Astoria from Silver Spring isn’t practical, but a short walk to The Big Greek Cafe on Georgia Avenue is no problem. And the food’s nearly just as good.
For carnivores, the gyro pita ($6.50, above) is a good pick. Beef and lamb are ground together and remoulded into a massive loaf. (Think Spam with half the salt and none of the gelatinous texture.) That loaf is roasted, then shaved into thin pieces of amalgamated protein, rolled in warm pita bread, and served with tomatoes, red onions and tzaziki (their spelling, not mine) sauce.
The meat has a nice texture, not chewy or tough like straight beef, not spongy like other restaurants’ gyros. And its flavor leans towards beef — a little sweet where roasting has caramelized it — and not as gamey as straight lamb. It’s also well seasoned, leaving out the heavy salt that processed meats generally pack.
The pita blanket stands up to the meat without becoming a soggy mess or a tenacious chew toy. And the tzaziki sauce — tangy yogurt with a cool hint of cucumber and bright dill — really rounds out the sandwich with a zing. It’s good eats.
If grazing is your thing, the big Greek salad ($8) is a good way to go. It’s standard Romaine lettuce with tomato and cucumber slices, crumbled feta cheese and kalamata olives. But the vinaigrette gives the whole thing a robust oregano kick. It’s a pleasant change from the mundane oil-and-vinegar jobs found at other local restaurants.
For a couple of bucks more, diners can score Yia Yia Lea’s grilled shrimp salad ($10, above). That’s the same veggies as above, topped with delectibly plump pieces of grilled shrimp. Nice.
Another Greek fave is spanakopita, offered as an appetizer ($6) or as part of a platter (below) with salad and a side order ($8). Traditionally, this version of spinach pie has a dense layer of feta-infused greens seasoned with dill, dill and more dill, and baked in flaky layers of buttery phyllo dough.
However, The Big Greek Cafe’s version is a little slim on the spinach, light on the dill, and encased in an oily, heavier version of phyllo. It’s also served as one triangular pouch, like an oversized appetizer at a cocktail party, instead of a slice from a larger pan. Take it if you really need the fix. Skip it if you don’t.
All of the restaurant’s platters offer a choice of side orders: roasted, lemony potatoes (yay!); heavy, limp french fries (meh); string beans, manestra (orzo pasta in tomato sauce) and a rice pilaf (not sampled).
The place itself has a cozy, casual feel, with contemporary Greek music blasting on the radio, an Orthodox Madonna and child on the back wall, and a guy named Nick behind the counter. Service is quick, but expect uninitiated customers to cause mild delays while studying the vast menu.
The Big Greek Cafe, 8417 Georgia Ave, Silver Spring, (301) 495-2912.
Photos by J. Deseo and R. Pace for The Penguin.
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I would add that the roast chicken is excellent too. And you won’t go wrong with the Hercules burger.
Good review, Penguin. Just wishing I hadn’t clicked to find out what kokoretsi was.
Also, their baklava is one of the nicest I’ve had from a restaurant! They make all their desserts in-house. The baklava is apparently made in the style of Andros, the island where the proprietor & his family are from.
Kokoretsi really isn’t that bad, but you have to dig organ meat (liver, kidney, etc) to get into it.
The Hercules Burger is absolutely epic. Highest of recommendations.
I would add that the fries are a bit limp and heavy, but I still thought they were tasty. I did prefer the manestra.
Also, they run periodic specials at Greek Cafe. The night I went (first Friday it was open) they had some meatball plate special that looked delicious.
Here’s hoping this place stays around for a good long while. I just wish they had chicken gyros to go with the beef/lamb ones!
Taramosalata! Four blocks from my house! I am happy.
I didn’t have dessert, and I still have a stash of baklava in the freezer from the fall festival at the Greek church on 16th st (it freezes fantastically well and if you’re impatient and like a cold dessert, you don’t even need to defrost) but now I want to go back and try theirs.
Oh damn, just looking at the photos, my hunger is going through the roof.
I CAN HAS TZATZIKEE?
Jennifer,
Send your ninjas back and get us the 411 on their falafels! I’m still looking for the moment of falafel bliss that I had in Jerusalem and have yet to re-experience in the USA.
By the way, do they serve retsina, or at least Greek beer?
Thanks for the photo kudos. I’ve gotta say, for a joint that serves it up on Styrofoam plates, they do a good job of presentation.
To answer Springvale’s question, they don’t serve alcohol. (Probably explains how they managed to open so soon after the former tenant moved out.)
My neighbor says the owner told him they do plan to serve alcohol eventually.
Another vote for the Hercules Burger…I had that on opening day and was amazed at how good it was. I’m glad to hear the other dishes are measuring up; this is looking to be a worthy addition to the SS restaurant scene.
They told me that they also plan to add delivery soon.
My wife and I ate there last night. Food gets an A. TV on while greek music playing very annoying. Plastic forks, styrofoam plates. Help. But food is great and price is right. We will be back but probably to carry out. In spite of fast food short comings, it is so great to have some excellent greek food in the hood. Now we need some great barbecue and things will really be looking up.
It’s not in the hood, but barbecue in these part’s doesn’t get any better than Urban BBQ. Well worth the drive to White Oak.
Ate there Saturday evening…not only was the food very good, but so was the value. A huge plate of decliciousness for about $8. I have a fairly big appetite and left stuffed.
My husband and I ate here on Saturday evening. We both loved what we got. I got the gyro platter w/the roasted potatoes and it was way more than I could eat. The gyro was delicious as were those divine roasted potatoes. My husband got the Hercules burger and really liked it. We ordered the spanikopita as an appetizer, but I think they forgot about it as it came out about 10 mins after we got our food and they apologized. It wasn’t a big deal as we both had plenty to eat anyway and just had them wrap it up to go. When we had it (re-heated) the next day for lunch, it was really good. I can only imagine how good it was fresh. We’ll definitely be returning.
This place is a great addition to the Silver Spring dining scene. My family ate there tonight and the food was very good and service was quick and friendly. We’ll be back.
The pita with bifteki is the best, you can’t
get better than that…
I have learned that the creating partners of the Big Greek Cafe are out due to the previous owner’s request. Such a good thing short lived.
Oh no, I can’t believe its closed, what happened.
Hang on, this info has NOT been verified.
Spoke with someone at the restaurant Thursday evening. He said the restaurant will reopen next Monday, May 4, after its air-conditioning issues are resolved.
Went there on Monday and its under new ownership what happen to the orginial owners. Hope the food taste the same
I saw today that it’s no longer “The Big Greek Cafe” but just “Big Greek.”
Alright, I don’t know what the fuck is going on over there, but obviously warrants another taste-testing trip.
Wow…I really hope that nothing has changed for the worse for this place. They were just getting off to a great start…and a great inexpensive addition to our dining out choices.
I should correct my comment…it’ not “Big Greek” but just “The Greek” now. Sorry.
From a drive-by on Saturday (may 9), the sign now is The Greek Place. Don’t know what’s going, haven’t had a chance to try. :~(
Dude…I just went there for lunch and was totally bummed. OSFP is correct, the place is now dubbed “The Greek Place”, but they have the same menu as before. However, the cooks are no longer Greek descent…well maybe…I’m horrible at identifying ethnic backgrounds but I’m guessing Latino? I had a chicken souvlaki and it just wasn’t the same. I’m not sure what was missing maybe less seasoning and difference in the sauce? I also noticed that their humongoid baklava was different (just in appearance…didn’t order it). I guess the big thing I noticed was the pungent smell of cinnamon air spray (or something like that) in the air and the lack of jovial laughter in the background from Nick and his crew.
I went by there the other day, let me tell you bring a bag to barf in. I got the gyro sandwich and it was like cardboard, I went to complain to the manager, by the way his name is Julio, I told him my complaint and he said he could not understand me. Excuse me, when I told him in my broken spanish the complaint he looked at me like I was an idiot and shrugged me off. I asked him where were the big greeks, his reply was they are not here anymore. my reply was NOW I UNDERSTAND WHY THE FOOD SUCKS
Editor’s note: “LTM” previously posted this comment under the screen name “Simon”. — JD (May 30, 2009)