The pressure of opening a restaurant has to be enormous — the cost, the risk, the scrutiny of ruthless critics who don’t give a rat’s ass about the cost or the risk. It can’t be an easy gig.
It probably doesn’t help if that restaurant is a sushi joint located only steps away from dozens of federal fish experts. The Pomegranate Cafe, a small but tidy spot on the ground floor of The Bennington apartments, sits a few yards from offices of the National Marine Fisheries Service. Tough crowd.
So does the Pomegranate Cafe know fish as well as its neighbors do? Um yeah, pretty much.
The lunch special sushi ($8, below) offers among other things three pieces of nigiri — slices of fish lounging on small, individual cushions of rice.

The tuna nigiri has a soft squish and slightly bitter twinge to it, as tuna does; its salmon counterpart leaves a heavy, omega-3 feel on the palette. But that’s raw fish. Take it or leave it.
On the other hand, the shrimp nigiri puts a cooked swimmer on the plate. The flesh snaps pleasantly between the teeth, and its sweetness swirls nicely against the lightly vinegared rice.
Along with the nigiri, the lunch special comes with eight bite-sized pieces of California roll, constructed of sweet imitation crab meat, fresh avocado and rice, secured in a seaweed wrap. It’s the sushi that one imagines when thinking of sushi, and it’s pretty good.
Despite its doppelganger status, the imitation crab meat has a fresh, taut texture and works well against the softer (but not squishy) avocado. The smoky seaweed balances out the sweetness, and tiny orange pearls of fish roe add pop to every bite.

Even better than the California roll is the spicy tuna roll ($4, above), which arrives as six pieces on a plate. The raw tuna is finely chopped without becoming a mealy paste, mixed with hot sauce and creamy mayonnaise, then wrapped in a light layer of rice and seaweed.
The hot sauce is a little spicy (though not spicy ass), and the mayo cools things off with oh so good fatness. It’s tasty.
While the cafe does well with sushi, it needs some help with its hot entrees. The bibimbap rice bowl ($7, below) is a bland patchwork of soy sprouts, shitake mushrooms, cucumber, spinach and either beef or chicken over steamed rice.
Traditionally, this Korean dish cooks with raw egg and a dollop of spicy-ass sauce in the stoneware bowl in which it’s served. Pomegranate’s version dishes it out on the tepid side and with very little seasoning.

Similarly, the bulgogi bento box ($8) is listed on the menu as marinated rib-eye beef over rice. But what arrives resembles ground beef in a sweet teriyaki sauce. Its taste isn’t objectionable, but it’s not rib-eye.
At least the bento box comes along with two plump vegetable dumplings baked (that’s right, I said baked) until crisp. It’s good eats and can be ordered as a six-piece deal ($6).
Seating inside this bright cafe can be limited when the weather is rough, but patio furniture in the adjacent plaza takes that load off on nicer days. The staff is helpful, though the place operates mostly on counter service.
What remains to be seen is whether Pomegranate will cater strictly to the weekday workforce, or if its hours will stretch past 8:00 p.m. to accommodate area residents. At least it operates on weekends for everyone to check out.
Pomegranate Cafe, 1215 East-West Hwy, Silver Spring, (301) 562-9400.