Tucked away on Grubb Road near Rock Creek Gardens, the Parkway Deli pays glorious homage to Reuben, the patron saint of sandwiches.
No one really knows who Reuben was, or why a sandwich bears his name. (Okay, so this guy knows.) What is clear is that the Reuben sandwich is good grub, even if it’s not good for you.
Observe the Parkway Deli’s interpretation of the sandwich. The kitchen stacks one-half pound of sweet corned beef onto caraway-seeded rye bread, tosses in a tangle of crisp sauerkraut, slathers on tangy Russian dressing, tops it with creamy Swiss cheese … and then grills that bad boy in butter until golden brown and ooey gooey.
It’s a coronary nightmare, but a gustatory wet dream. And at $9, it’s easy on the wallet.
The deli’s burgers are just as dangerous, and just as tasty. The oversized Rio Grande burger ($8) offers a juicy, grilled beef patty with crisp bacon, melted Monterey Jack cheese and tangy chipotle mayonnaise. The accompanying lettuce and tomato slice clear the conscience, if not the clogged arteries.
On top of that, most of the burger selections (seven to choose from) arrive with a generous side of crisp French fries. The angioplasty is extra.The deli also offers in-house diners a complimentary “pickle bar”, but it ain’t just cucumbers. If it can be pickled — beets, peppers, cauliflower, whatever — then expect it at the pickle bar. And expect it to be bright and crisp, not limp or squishy.
Despite the restaurant’s crowds — and it’s usually crowded — service is surprisingly quick, as well as accommodating. On one visit, part-time Penguin ninja Silver Springer told the server that his burger was not cooked as ordered. (He asked for well done. He got medium rare.) However, half the burger was already gone, having been consumed by me.
In five minutes, the server returned with another platter, this time with a well-done burger, as well as the accompanying fries. There was no extra charge on the bill, and Silver Springer had enough for lunch the following day. That’s service!
And don’t be put off by the tight parking lot in front of the restaurant. There’s plenty of parking behind the building.
Parkway Deli and Restaurant, 8317 Grubb Rd, Silver Spring, (301) 587-1427.
Originally published Jan 9, 2008.
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And don’t forget their remarkable matzoh ball soup. As patrons of the Parkway have known for decades, you don’t have to be Jewish to be addicted to theirs, which IMO is the zenith of comfort food. I tried a 12 step program to get off the stuff, but I never could make it past step one–it’s just that good.
Oh…to have Parkway Deli located in downtown Silver Spring instead of west of Rock Creek Park!
OMG, breakfast at Parkway is wonderful, too! The hash browns are crispy on the outside, creamy on the inside, just perfect. After much taste testing, my favorite omelet is the spinach, bacon, and cheese omelet. The spinach keeps the omelet moist. Wonderful stuff.
The very best thing at Parkway? The mashed potatoes. Made from scratch, flavorful, pure heaven on a fork.
Other highlights: the rotisserie chicken (half a chicken dinner, enough for two meals), the delight sandwich (also enough for two meals), any lamb dish although I’m partial to the lamb shanks, the poppyseed hamentash (out in the baked goods case), the milk shakes, I could go on forever.
Parkway is a great mix of Jewish deli and Maryland home cooking. It’s the place to go when you need a classic dinner (meat and two veg) and your soul needs a bit of comfort and healing.
Mmmmmm this place is delicious. Best way to eat away a hangover. The serving sizes are generous…I buy lunch and end up with lunch and dinner.
Can’t say no to a complimentary pickle bar. However, I can say that I hate making that left turn onto Grubb from East-West highway. It’s right at a rise in the road, and every time I make that turn I expect to see a speeding car coming the other way crash into me.
I truly appreciate the most useful tip at the end of this review. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve idled in that front parking lot waiting for a space to open up, never remembering the giant parking lot in the back. Thanks Penguin!
A driving tip for Springvale Roader. No need to confront your fears of a speeding car in order to score your Parkway Deli lunch. Instead turn left at Washington, the light before Grubb. Confusingly, on the right, its Sundale. Then proceed on Washington and turn right into the shopping center wherein lies the Deli. Enjoy your de-stressed meal!
Rock Creek Villager: Thanks! If there’s any intersections in DTSS which cause you grief, just let me know and I’ll try to return the favor.
Rock Creek Villager: True, the intersection with Washington is safer than Grubb, but you will have to wait forever to turn left because of the onslaught of fast cars/trucks/buses coming down E-W Hwy. If we’re lucky, one car per green light gets to turn left. There is no good solution without a dedicated turn lane & light. Until then, the Parkway is worth the inconvenience, for sure.
Woodsider, if it’s that bad, then maybe the best approach is to make a right on Sundale, do a K turn, and wait for the light to turn green so you can drive across onto Washington.
I learned to drive in Manhattan and am no shrinking violet on the road, but I really see that Grubb turn as very dangerous, particularly if you’ve got the sun in your eyes.
I’ll have to try that…I go to that shopping center about 4 times per week between the gym, co-op, bike shop & The Parkway.
Not only great food, but if your kids cause a ruckus no one bats an eyelash. In fact, the wait staff will probably bring you extra crayons and snacks, unbidden, and with a smile.
hey Jerry McCoy, check your map. Grubb Road is definitely EAST of Rock Creek Park.
Springvale Roader – thanks for offer of help with DTSS intersections. No questions right now, but will let you know when I have one. But – a parking question – why is that Wayne Street garage so popular/congested on weekday evenings?
Woodsider, I guess turning at Washington can be hard; I must just be lucky ’cause I haven’t gotten hung up there…yet! Springvale Roaders idea for turning around on Sundale would work just fine.
Now that we’ve found a solution, come on by and enjoy the Parway Deli!
Editor’s note: The Wayne Ave garage (assuming that’s what you meant) is crowded on weekday evenings because parking is free after 6:00 p.m. And who can pass up free parking, whether one has business in downtown Silver Spring or not? — JD (Jan 30, 2008)
Mmm, Parkway Deli has that awesome pickle bar and yummy meatloaf sandwiches. I like Parkway Deli, but I often don’t have the patience to wait in that long line. I also enjoy Red Dog Cafe in the same little shopping center as Parkway. I recommend people try Red Dog when Parkway Deli is too full and you are too hungry to wait in line (i.e. any given weekend around Brunch time).
Used to be one of our faves, we’ve strayed recently. Don’t know why. My fave is the matzoh ball soup, it’s huge. Don’t overlook the hot dog wrapped in bologna! Pork is my favorite fruit. Recently took my bro-in-law there and he had the Rueben. He said it was the best one he’s ever had.
I’ve discovered the grilled turkey & brie sandwich, on sourdough with cranberry jelly. Oh my freaking god, it is DIVINE!!!!!!!
I’m partial to the smoked fish platters… delicious especially the morning following a night od heavy drinking Their matzo ball soup is unfortunately lacking. It isn’t kosher for passover not even by Reform standards. They put noodles in the soup! What are they thinking?
My favorite place in Silver Spring. LOVE their Reuben but I get onion rings with it. Their matzoh ball soup is not bad but my mother’s is better. My parents favorite breakfast place.
Woodsider, back in the day there didn’t used to be a turn lane at Washington/Sundale on EW at all, and Parkway was still worth it. Great Ladkes, IMHO…
Love Parkway, best place to in SS to get breakfast all day and the Matzoh has true healing power.
In the name of all that is good and pure and appetizing, could we not use the phrase “wet dream” in a restaurant review? Particularly to describe an “ooey-gooey” sandwich?
Oh, and I too love the Parkway Deli. Turkey burgers… latkes… mmm…
Didn’t we just go through a Parkway Deli swoon on this site about this time last year, or am I imagining things?
Yeah, this article is an “encore posting” (read: rerun) from January. I’m pacing myself with the restaurant reviews this summer. It’s swimsuit season, and I’ve grown VERY FAT.
But Penguin readers can expect new restaurant reviews soon, plus another wine review from Penguin sommelier Maggie Ardiente.
You have a sommelier?? Dammit. I need to get me one of those. Maybe Thayer Ave., Too is up to the task…
Depends on your wine budget.
Decent wine, and I’m in. If you’re limited to the box-o-vino, my grandmother can probably help you out.
There’s another great thing about the Parkway that some readers might relate to: the “bringing back childhood memories” factor.
For those of us who grew up with European Jewish traditions (or really anyone for that matter) and had doting grandmothers & mothers who have since passed on, the Parkway is a place where we can have many of their specialty dishes again.
Since my grandmother & mother are both gone, I donn’t have anyone to make me matzoh ball soup, latkes, etc. So every time I go to the Parkway, starting with the first smell of the soup and nibble of latkes, it never fails to remind me of all the great memories I have of these two great ladies and how much I miss them.
Trekkie, you’re right that the Matzoh Ball soup is lacking as a Matzoh Ball soup. I like it, but I don’t think of it as authentic. Just as I’ve grown to like Einstein Bagels though they’re not real bagels to me. Does that make sense? I’ve been all around here and haven’t found any soup like that in NYC. I love the Stage Deli’s Mish Mosh.
Woodsider, my mother-in-law (whose parents were Jewish emigrants from Russia) loves ALL of the European Jewish delights. She currently lives north of Chicago. In fact we’re going to see her this week. She lives in a predom Jewish area, Highland Park. Even there, it’s no easy feat to find some items. However, there is a deli called Max’s that has excellent Matzoh Ball soup, Mish Mosh, brisket and corned beef. (slightly fatty of course)
We recently traveled to NYC and went to Barney Greengrass on Amsterdam at 86th. Had a wonderful breakfast for myself, lovely wife and two daughters. Total bill about $75.00, hello is this thing on? One look at my wife’s face as she took a bite of her lox and bagel was priceless. As I read thru the menu I could only think of my mother-in-law back in Chicago. The second we got home I ordered her some treats from Barney Greengrass. I got her some rye, some sable and the highlight for her, nova wings. She loves nova wings, ate them as a kid. She can’t find them anymore in Chicago and wouldn’t eat them in a restaurant if she did. Why not I asked her? “What, and have people see me gnawing on nova wings?”
One place I can point you to is in Baltimore. It’s called Attmans and it has the best corned beef (slightly fatty of course) that we’ve found anywhere around here. Same for the sliced brisket sandwich with their own mustard. Don’t get me started on mustard. BTW, if anyone is interested I have a killer brisket recipe.
And lastly, up New Hampshire Ave where Randolph Road crosses is a big shopping center. In there is Upper Crust bakery. They have the best Rugelah anywhere. We always take some to Chicago with us. Mom sez they’re some of the best she’s ever had. High praise indeed.
Oh yeah, try their New York Rye too.
I can’t believe how many people bash the Parkway’s Matzoh ball soup. It’s delish. My theory? We’re often conditioned to like things the way mom or bubbe made them. Ours tasted like the Parkway which is probably why I love it. And Tzimmes? I can’t stand that crap with the marshmallows and brown sugar. My grandmother made it with predominately carrots, of course, and (get this), tiny matzoh balls, pieces of lamb and carmelized onions. I’ve yet to find anyone who makes it that way. I could eat a pound of it.
Penguin
Makes sense Wayne Ave garage (that is what I meant!) is crowded ’cause its free after 6 pm. As you say, who can resist. Certainly not me! However, the garage on Ellsworth doesn’t seem as congested on weekday nights. Maybe it’s the hotel connected to Wayne Street. The 2 garages seem to me equally close to the restaurants and shops.
Parkway Deli is worthy of 2 postings per year!
Parkway Deli French Toast is great.
JenD, pls do a post on RedDog. I was surprised to learn that John E sold it so now Kirsten owns it. I love Redsog’s mangoe smoothy, chicken ripighi, & potato wedges.
Also, JenD, pls dont call yourself fat. You may have meat on you but that doesnt mean you’re fat.
You can read The Penguin’s review of RedDog Cafe here.
I am astounded at the behavior of the weekend manager at Parkway Deli. Last Saturday night (April 18), I was going to dinner, heard shriek and thud, and looked up to see a car driving on the sidewalk in front of the Parkway. It knocked into a metal trashcan, circled around, and pushed a Prius around into a space two over from where it had been parked. The trash can hit two men eating outside Parkway Deli, knocked them out of their chairs, and knocked over their table. They were scratched and shaken up, but nothing broken. The driver was an elderly woman who was also unhurt. After the two men were bandaged up, they returned to see if they could get a replacement meal for the one that had been knocked to the ground by the accident. The manager angrily told them to ask the woman who caused the accident to buy them a new meal, and refused to speak to them further. The men had bought their meal just before they were knocked out of their seats at the sidewalk table. Thankfully, the rest of that strip center was nicer. The folks at TPSS co-op comped a meal for them, and the folks at Red Dog ran to their assistance right after the accident. I couldn’t believe that the manager at Parkway wasn’t more concerned about his customers and couldn’t bring himself to be compassionate or even community-oriented. The man wasn’t threatening to sue; he just wanted to eat the meal he had already paid for. I won’t return to Parkway Deli after that experience.
JenD that review was from 2yrs ago. At that time Jon has just sold rdc to Kirsten Poole/Jerry. Now 2 yrs later Kirsten sold it solely to Jerry. Hollinger. Chef Janice Mclean left rdc for to go back to morrison clark inn(DC). From what I have read Jerry is worse than Kirsten.
No maple syrup with the hallah french toast.
JOHN EMMANUELSON PLEASE COME BACK !
Editor’s note: This is a review of the Parkway Deli, not RedDog Cafe. For a more recent review of the deli, please see my Burger Quest report from this summer.
The Penguin hasn’t confirmed the claims in this comment. — JD (Oct 19, 2009)