Kicking it in Thai Derm — that unassuming hole in the wall on Bonifant Street — is like chilling in a long-time neighbor’s living room. Oh wait, that was a long-time neighbor’s living room.

Here’s the deal. The dive restaurant’s large bay window overlooking Bonifant Street, and its obscure, curtain-covered main entrance, sandwich the front door to a second-floor apartment. If the door you reach for opens to a clean but cheaply appointed dining room, then you’re in the right place. Find yourself on a cushy sofa playing video games, and you’re breaking and entering.

Assuming you haven’t set off a burglar alarm, you’ll enjoy a simple meal in a simple setting with simple prices. Simple, right?

Filed under appetizers, the spring rolls ($2.95 for two) are tight bundles of shredded cabbage swaddled in a thin wrapper, then deep fried until crisp. It’s utilitarian food, filling and surprisingly not greasy. Ditto for the deep-fried cubes of tofu ($4.50) served with a syrupy dipping sauce.

The simplicity rolls on with Thai Derm’s entrees. Unlike downtown’s other Thai pickings, Thai Derm doesn’t automatically turn on the heat for any of its dishes, even those featuring hot chilies. That kind of abuse must be requested.

For example, the chicken pad ped ($9.25) is advertised as a stir-fry with hot chilies and basil. It’s not bad — small bites of white meat tossed with slivers of jalapenos, scallions and basil in a thin but tangy brown sauce — a gentle introduction to the uninitiated. But it’s ain’t spicy.

If soup turns you on, the geow nam ($8.50) is another gentle, utilitarian swig. Beef broth seasoned with sweet, licorice-y star anise goes well with pork-stuffed wontons, even if the wonton wrappers eventually turn into soggy mush.

However, the Chinese-style roast pork swimming in that soup has too robust a flavor and clashes with the bowl’s overall sweetness. Skip the roast pork, and you’ll do okay.

For a great bargain, the panang gai ($5.75, served on Tuesdays only) is pretty good. Small cuts of white meat lounge in a thick gravy of red Thai curry and coconut milk. And just like the European affinity for butter, there’s nothing that can’t be made better with coconut milk, especially when it’s combined with curry’s complexity.

Again, don’t let the prospect of flaming red curry frighten you. Thai Derm’s version of it is relatively harmless.

The lunch specials — four offered each weekday — comes with a spring roll and steamed rice. Perfect for the proletariat.

Thai Derm’s spartan dining room is total dive, made brighter by the servers’ speedy delivery and kind smiles.

Thai Derm, 939 Bonifant St, Silver Spring, (301) 589-5341

Lead photo: Thai Derm’s panang gai lunch special. Credit: J. Deseo/SSP.