Lunchtime at the Silver Spring Beer, Wine and Deli really tests one’s strength, agility and patience.
It’s a freakin’ full-contact sport. Workers bob and weave behind the small wooden counter, taking five orders simultaneously. Customers jostle to place orders or to grab a seat inside this small, drab Georgian Towers joint.
And what does one get for all the sweat and adgeda? Something that’s both pretty damned good and totally unremarkable at the same time.
For example, the gyro salad ($7, right) piles strip after strip of gyro meat (as described on the menu) on top of mixed greens and a couple of tomato slices.
The pretty damned good part of this dish is the gyro meat, usually an amalgam of ground lamb and beef moulded like Middle Eastern Spam, then roasted on a spit. It’s got a bold, garlicky flavor and unlike gelatinous Spam, the gyro meat is just a little dry and tough. You know, like real meat.
The unremarkable part is the accompanying salad. True, one really can’t expect too much from lettuce, tomatoes, and an unseasoned vinaigrette served on the side. But the blah salad is a harsh buzz kill to the gyro high. It’s like eating air — pointless and unsatisfying.
It’s the same story for the falafel sandwich ($6, right), which is both freakin’ awesome and crappy. Its awesomeness comes from beautiful, plump falafel — small deep-fried patties rolled from chickpea flour.
Unlike other restaurants that season falafel with heavy cumin, Silver Spring Beer, Wine and Deli uses bright parsley — and lots of it — to bring the patties to life. And the deli’s falafel are surprisingly light and fluffy on the inside for something so crisp on the outside. That’s how you make a freakin’ falafel!
Again, the lettuce and tomatoes that keep the patties from rolling out of their dry pita case are a big letdown. Packing peanuts have more flavor than that. Nutty tahini sauce is served on the side, but it would be criminal to smother those fluffy falafel in a dense dressing.
For an extra two bucks, diners can score a tall fountain soda (no big whoop) and a heap of crisp shoestring french fries. (Disclaimer: I haven’t met too many french fries that I didn’t like.)
On the beer-and-wine front, the deli has a modest selection of booze but nothing on tap.
Silver Spring Beer, Wine and Deli, 8746 Georgia Ave, Silver Spring, (301) 588-7170
August 21, 2008
7 Comments at "Dining: Silver Spring Beer, Wine & Deli"
I work down the street from this place and have eaten there many times. The previous owner who had been there for about 15 years sold to the new one last year. He kept the exact same menu and same prices. That’s the problem.
While the food quality & service is very good, the prices are 20% out of line for what you get, especially in that hole-in-the-wall type setting. It just should not cost nearly $10 for a chicken sandwich, fries & drink.
You can go around the corner on Spring Street to David’s and for about $3 less, you get far more food, much more creatively prepared (they have “real food” specials…not just fast food). And the young dude who works there is a music fanatic and plays his cool I-tunes mixes.
For those of us who eat lunch out most days in DTSS, the savings can add up very fast. I’ve essentially stopped going to SS BW & D just for this reason. David’s blows them out of the water.
I just checked while at lunch a few minutes ago. The prices are about 30% higher at Wine & Deli than at Davids for the same ham & cheese sub, chips & drink.
Thanks for doing the research, Woodsider. Will check out David’s some day.
Personally, I think $6 for a falafel sandwich, fries and soda is fair. But SS Deli does need to work on things. Gotta make that falafel worth the chaotic service.
Jen, if you really love falafel, go to the Amsterdam Cafe on 18th St in the heart of Adams Morgan. you will think you’ve died and gone to the middle east…uh, I mean heaven.
In the land of beer, wine, and deli’s that is SS, I cast my vote for Seminary as the best. Great beer selection, good wine selection, and a italian hogie that’s got no right to be as good as it is.
David’s is fair. Woodsider is right on, Amsterdam Cafe is amazing!!!!! Seminary BWD is totally over priced a six pack of Sierra Nevada is like $12 and it’s about $8 most places. All other items are over priced as well, Santucci’s in 4 corners is way better.
Amsterdam’s is good but if you are in Silver Spring (wheaton), the option should be Max’s Cafe which is even better.
Holler back.