Finally, The Penguin ninja crew graduates from the nachos, waffle cones and chicken nuggets that are traditional downtown Turf cuisine. It sure took long enough.

But what can we do? (And by “we”, I mean me and part-time Penguin ninja Southside Evan.) Penguins can be stubborn and sometimes skeptical about restaurants that others may laud.

But for the first time, we’re glad we paid attention to all that unsolicited advice to try the Adega Wine Cellars (8519 Fenton St). The casual eatery offers fun food for grownups, and allows patrons to enjoy a pleasant meal in a cozy setting without shelling out too much cash.

For a mature meal without the pretense, the Ahi tuna salad is a smart bet ($13 at lunch, though the menu lists it at “market price”). Three surprisingly thick slabs of seared tuna are served rare over a pile of mixed greens and diced tomatoes tossed with a light vinaigrette (above).

The tuna, served at room temperature, has a clean taste and soft texture, both of which play nicely against the sweet tomatoes and slightly tart vinaigrette. The slight snap of the mixed greens, and their slight bitterness, round off the dish — er, the black Styrofoam plate on which the food arrives.

The Ahi tuna salad comes with a steaming mound of white rice infused with small bits of fresh ginger that give it a slightly sweet zing. The fish and greens alone make a filling meal, but leave a little room for the rice. It’s a pleasant addition.

adega-wrap.JPGFrom Adega’s selection of wraps, The Jerk ($7.25, left) is fun without being frivolous. Chunks of grilled chicken, crisp romaine lettuce and sweet mango snuggle in a soft chipotle tortilla. The soft mango lends the room-temperature chicken a bright, tropical flavor and balances the wrap’s textures. Potato chips (no big whoop) are served on the side.

For an appetizer or side dish, hit the sweet potato fries ($3.50). They’re warm, crisp on the outside, sweet and starchy on the inside, and really freakin’ good.

Adega’s dining room is bright during the day, cozy and candlelit at night. Counter service is the way things play, so don’t expect waiters. And the restaurant serves wine by the glass (not reviewed) or sells it by the bottle.

Adega Wine Cellars & Cafe, 8519 Fenton St, Silver Spring, (301) 608-2200.