Good Chinese food is like good Italian food: It’s all about the sauce. And at this downtown restaurant, they know sauce.

The secret ingredient — in Chinese food, not Italian — is usually oyster sauce, a thick and savory goop. Kitchens that go with low-end stuff end up with bland brown gravy that’s mostly soy sauce.

But joints like Asian Bistro (8537 Georgia Ave) know what’s up. If they indeed use oyster sauce, they hit it in the right proportions. They also work the fresh scallions and ginger, two more ingredients that crappier restaurants tend to skip.

asianbistro-noodles.JPGThe combination lo mein ($13) is a lush pile of soft, squishy noodles tossed with firm bites of chicken cutlet, beef and shrimp. The kitchen eases up on the julienned vegetables, especially celery and cabbage, which many Asian restaurants use as filler.

Throw in just enough of that rich brown sauce to coat the noodles, and that’s good eats. That same sauce works wonders for the tender stir-fried chicken with bright, crisp broccoli ($12).

The menu also has a large selection of Japanese dishes, mostly of the raw fish variety. Selections from the sushi bar have not yet undergone The Penguin taste test.

The clean dining room looks out onto Downtown Silver Spring’s metered lot. Not much of a view during the day, but dazzling at night, when the Discovery building lights up. The service is courteous and startlingly quick.

Asian Bistro doesn’t deliver and its prices are higher than those at other Chinese restaurants. Then again, you get what you pay for.

Asian Bistro, 8537 Georgia Ave, Silver Spring, (301) 589-0123.

Originally published Jul 11, 2007.