The Silver Spring Penguin

Since steaming its first espresso in May, Highland Origin has become Fenton Village’s place to be for a game of chess or just bumming around. But the coffee still confounds me.

Back in May, I wrote this about Highland’s organic coffee:

“Taste testing conducted on two occasions … revealed a weak, dilute brew lacking any body, bouquet or flavor. This can be attributed to many things — stale beans, too course a grind, not enough coffee in the press — but a mild roast is not to blame.”

The coffee’s vigor has been inconsistent in subsequent visits (and there have been many). During one trip, the nutty, robust brew had enough octane to fuel a Cadillac. But in another visit, the coffee was weak and thin and wouldn’t kick start a Prius.

At least the hot cocoa’s good. Highland uses a chocolate syrup (possibly Godiva) that tones down the sugar, yet hits the milk base with a light, bitter bite. The result is a well-rounded, rich cup of cocoa that works well even without whipped cream.

On Highland’s desserts, I previously wrote:

“The cakes are friggin’ awesome, thanks to the same culinary geniuses who supply the District’s Watergate Hotel.

“The white chocolate mousse cake ($2.50) is velvety, moist and creamy, topped with shaved white chocolate. The same goes for the tiramisu ($2.50), though it strays from traditional mascarpone cream cheese sandwiched between espresso-soaked, soft, squishy ladyfingers. Instead, a light yellow cake alternates with fluffy mousse and a chocolaty topping. It’s still good eats.

“The cheesecake ($2.50) is rich, smooth and creamy, brightened with a hit of lemon. Its crust moves away from crumbled Graham crackers and leans towards dense cake. Again, good eats.”

Thankfully, the cakes haven’t changed a bit. Add to this a beautiful napoleon ($2.50), delicate layers of flaky puff pastry and a smooth, squishy vanilla pudding. Damn, that’s good eats!

The bright, airy dining room is definitely the star attraction, and the window seats are great for watching people and traffic on Fenton Street. One end of the room seems geared towards hosting musical performances, though none have been held yet. (Can you say Penguin concert series?) Rotating art exhibits give the place a warm, cozy feel.

The bottom line is the same as it was in May: Luxurious desserts and great ambiance beat lame coffee any day of the week.

Highland Origin Coffee, 8200 Fenton St, Silver Spring, (301) 495-6302.