True to its namesake, Tijuana’s is cheesy and cheap. But don’t let the dive atmosphere be a turnoff.Yeah, the dining room’s dark and the red lighting is trashy, but so what? The food at Tijuana’s Mexican Cafe (8221 Georgia Ave) is decent, the price is right and the karaoke en espanol jumps seven days a week.

Those with a big appetite (or a good buzz) can start with the nachos ($6), a massive mound of crisp corn chips smothered in ooey, gooey cheese and warm, lumpy pinto beans.

Add to that a dollop of guacamole, with bright onion bits and soothing chunks of avocado, a swirl of cool sour cream and a sprinkling of fresh pico de gallo (diced tomatoes, onion and cilantro), and DAMN! That’s good eats!

At lunch, the restaurant’s combination platters are a good bet. Combo number three ($7, above) dishes a fried cornmeal cake (pupusa) stuffed with moist pulled pork, a dense brick of a chicken tamale, and a soft taco stuffed with savory sliced beef, diced tomatoes and bits of kickin’ jalapeno pepper.

Combo number two ($7) offers a soft, moist chicken taco and, unfortunately, a heavily breaded, deep-fried poblano pepper suffocated in tomato sauce and melted cheese. (Don’t sweat it. Only two of Tijuana’s five lunch combos come with the stuffed poblano.)

All combos are served with a side of those beautifully lumpy pinto beans topped with melted cheese, a scoop of soft, tomato-accented rice and jalapeno-spiked pico de gallo.

The menu also features plenty of seafood and vegetarian dishes, as well as a kiddie menu. A small bar (not reviewed due to parole restrictions) fuels the nightly Spanish-language karaoke.

The service is quick, but don’t be surprised if the waitress needs a gentle reminder to deliver the chips. The lunch buffet gets diners around that small inconvenience.

Tijuana’s Mexican Cafe, 8221 Georgia Ave, Silver Spring, (301) 562-9336.

Originally reviewed May 2, 2007.