Never judge something on looks alone. That lanky, Gucci-clad supermodel could be a total bore. On the other hand, the pudgy kid with a bad cold sore could be the life of the party.
That’s Tian Jin Palace (8411 Georgia Ave), a demure little dump that makes up for its lackluster setting with good, cheap Chinese eats. It’s the kind of joint that one hits after a long night of bar hopping, if Silver Spring had bars — a White Castle of the Asian persuasion.
For starters, the steamed meat dumplings ($5) are dense bundles of ground pork, bright ginger and pungent scallions draped in a slightly chewy wrapper. It’s not authentic eats, but the savory stuffing blends well with the sweet, soy-based dipping sauce.
The chicken with broccoli ($5 at lunch, $8 at dinner, above) is all about the sauce — a thick, rich, soy-based concoction that gently coats taut slices of white meat and crisp broccoli florets. Its robust flavor is nearly on par with those at downtown’s Asian Bistro, while its massive portion offers more bang for the buck.
From the deep fryer, the General Tso’s chicken ($9) is easy on the breading and slightly spicy. Instead of coating the boneless pieces of dark meat in a dense batter, the chicken is dusted in cornstarch then deep fried for crispness. The accompanying red sauce is playfully tangy and offers a touch of heat to bring out its sweetness.
On the downside, the assorted meats and seafood with bean curd (under the “chef’s specialties” at $12, below) is cacophonous. The stir-fry jumbles thin slices of beef with plump shrimp, tofu, boneless chicken and Shanghai cabbage in a clash of flavors.
Nothing about the dish is offensive — the mosh pit of flavors just doesn’t work. While the robust beef slams to “Smells Like Teen Spirit”, the tart tofu body surfs to Soundgarden. Meanwhile, the shrimp and chicken drown in a Smashing Pumpkins stupor.
(A more contemporary analogy: The robust beef slams to the Arctic Monkeys, the tart tofu body surfs to Fall Out Boy, the shrimp and chicken do a Girl in a Coma stupor.)
If money’s tight, then Tian Jin’s fried chicken wings ($3.50) are a good deal. Six wings are sculpted into mini-drumsticks, dusted with cornstarch and curry, then deep fried until crisp on the outside, moist on the inside. It’s good eats.
Dim lighting, dull furnishings and lame muzak flush the life out of the room. But the good, cheap eats and courteous service are worth an hour in a sensory vacuum.
Tian Jin Palace, 8411 Georgia Ave, Silver Spring, (301) 585-2275.
Photos by Jennifer Deseo for The Silver Spring Penguin.
Nov 17, 2008
12 Comments at "Dining: Tian Jin Palace"
We *always* get our Chinese food from Tian Jin. Quick delivery to Thayer Avenue, too. Great hot & sour soup, excellent szechuan beef, and when we order for a large group, they’ve been known to throw in an order of combo fried rice for free. Another place I hope stays in business for a long time!
I was a Tian Jin fan too, until I discovered Asian Bistro which is so so much better.
Asian Bistro is the best Chinese restaurant in the area. It’s pricey, though, when compared to the others. For delivery we rely on Palais de Lune. We get enough food for at least 3 people for about $20, give or take, and that includes free cold sesame noodles.
Haven’t checked out Tian Jin, but since we’ve got our going out and ordering in Chinese food bases covered, we probably won’t. Regarding the decor: I get can over dreary decor if the food is good, but really, jazzing up a place’s interior can do a lot for the meal.
Spring Garden has really good eats. They have sushi now too.
Now… I’d always happily take some more bars in town… but don’t you think “if silver spring had any bars” is a bit of an over exaggeration? Jackie’s, Quarry House, McGinty’s, Austin Grill, Ceviche, that super-hipster place on east-west near georgia, that ethiopian restaurant on georgia that turns dance club after hours…. granted i’ve mostly listed a lot of restaurants with bars (but I did leave off macaroni grill and red lobster.. i’m not stretching it THAT much)… but still… I personally love the fact that austin grill has live music almost every night. And when I’m the mood for a dark place with no windows, quarry house has a pretty excellent beer selection ever since jackie bought it. Anywho… I would think the more appropriate line is “if anyone from silver spring could actually get their DC friends to GO OUT in silver spring with them”.
Paul, you’ve listed a bunch of places to get a drink, but the Quarry House and McGinty’s are the only real bars in the bunch. (I love the Quarry House — that’s a bar’s bar). Everytime I return from New York City or Buffalo, I’m envious of all the bars in those two cities. Silver Spring needs a Quarry House on every block.
Here I was, all excited that maybe that restoration at Colesville and Fenton might be a corner bar, and what does it turn out it’s going to be? A frakkin’ T-Mobile store, that’s what! That shite belongs in (Sh)City Place Mall, not on a prime downtown corner, and THAT’s what’s wrong with Silver Spring.
All of this talk about bars is making me nostalgic for the Half Moon BBQ, which I consider more bar and music hall than restaurant (though the limited menu was mighty tasty).
Here are some other great neighborhood joints the likes of which it would be great to have in Silver Spring: Wonderland (Columbia Heights), the Hawk and Dove (Capitol Hill) St. Ex (U Street) the Common Share (now defunct, in Adams Morgan), and the Brickskeller (Dupont Circle). I’m not asking for these places to open up new branches, just for there to be more down home, independent places where drink and music take precidence over food.
Chinese restaurant sushi SUCKS! Silver Spring needs a good Japanese restaurant.
Piratz Tavern is a good place to get a drink on the weeknights and weekends when you don’t feel like going far, the atmosphere is cool and the grog packs a punch. But honestly, the only time I frequent one of the Silver Spring Bars is when I’m too lazy to go to DC or Bethesda. Bethesda’s bar scene isn’t the greatest, but its a younger scene and at 24 thats the crowd I enjoy. It would be nice if SS could bring in a REAL sports bar (not Galaxy).
The law in Montgomery County requires that at least 50% of the revenue comes from the sale of food. Thus no bars, only restaurants with bars. No bars until and unless the law is changed. Good luck with that.
Editor’s note: Gary Stith is director of the Silver Spring Regional Center. — JD (Oct 5, 2007)
Gary wrote:
Back when I lived in New York, there were a couple of places that hosted entertainment (music, comedy, whatever) without serving food or alcohol. It was soda or nothing (literally).
However, patrons were told that they could bring their own booze, just as long as it didn’t involve an employee serving it. Same goes for food.
Are there laws in MoCo governing that?
Also, does MoCo require licenses for dance floors and stages?
“The law in Montgomery County requires that at least 50% of the revenue comes from the sale of food. Thus no bars, only restaurants with bars. No bars until and unless the law is changed. Good luck with that.”
So where does this put Adega? Do they really have 50% of their revenue coming from the sale of food? Or are they classified as a wine store and not a restaurant?
I think one could make a good case for exempting the Silver Spring CBD from the 50% of revenues coming from food provision. This would be an uphill battle, given the county’s tradition as a bedroom community for families with kids. Still, one would hope that a progressive suburb so close to a central city could allow a portion of it’s jurisdiction to come to resemble DC’s Ward 1 neighborhoods (with venues that are attractive to singles and young people, demographically diverse, etc) and not just an extension of a bedroom community with taller buildings.
Holler back.