The Silver Spring Penguin

The preparation of a delicious meal takes time. It’s why primitive humans invented appetizers all those millennia ago.

But back then, appetizers were nothing more than woolly mammoth meatballs. Sure, primitive humans could harness the power of fire, but they couldn’t cook decent buffalo wings for squat.

Since then, culinary skills have evolved, taking the edge off for hungry restaurant patrons awaiting their entrees. For example, take the appetizers at Jackie’s (8081 Georgia Ave). Seriously, take the appetizers at Jackie’s.

Without them and the generous bread basket, it could be more than 60 minutes before any food hits the table.

To quell the tastebuds, the mini Elvis burger ($3 each, below) packs enough delicious flavor without spoiling the appetite. Served on a teenie-weenie toasted bun, the diminutive beef burger is moist and has robust flavor.

A mound of cheese-pimento salad on top of the beef is horrific on its own — way heavy on the mayo and Velveeta. But when consumed with the beef and bun, it creates a gestalt experience, creamy and savory and incredibly good.

When the entrees finally arrive, they hit with calculated gusto. As said, good food takes time.

For swine lovers, the grilled pork chop with corn relish ($25, below) is freakin’ unbelievable. The large, thick chop is dressed simply with salt and pepper, so as not to ruin its natural sweetness. It’s then seared gently to preserve the interior succulence.

It’s like buttah, baby!

The accompanying corn relish is also brilliant. Crisp, fresh corn kernels (not that mush out of a can) are tossed with tart lime juice and lots of fragrant cilantro. The bright seasoning plays perfectly against the sweet pork.

Add to that a watermelon salad that’s just freakin’ genius. Cubes of sweet yellow watermelon (minus the pits) meet a sharp shot of vinegar, shallots and jalapeno peppers. It’s sweet, tart and spicy, and puts all the tastebuds to work.

For a carb kick, the pork chop comes with wedges of deep-fried yucca, the potato’s starchier, slightly sweeter sibling. It works well with the pork to balance the dish’s flavors, playing against the corn and watermelon in texture and density.

Beef lovers will appreciate Jackie’s flat-iron steak with shoestring fries ($22, above), the restaurant’s take on steak frites. A steak ordered medium-well is caramelized on the outside, tender and juicy on the inside, and drizzled with a velvety chimichurri sauce with bold oregano accents.

Once again, buttah!

Roasted shallots round out the meal with savory sweetness, while crisp fries balance the meal’s texture.

Despite the delay with entrees, appetizers arrive relatively quickly. Servers also do their best maneuvering the sometimes crowded, sometimes noisy dining room to ensure delivery of a bottomless bread basket.

The dining room itself screams “posh”. Subdued lighting, fluffy throw pillows and a projection screen rolling miscellaneous images deliver an instant party atmosphere without being obnoxious or pretentious.

Go. Go now. Seriously, step away from the computer and GO.

Jackie’s, 8081 Georgia Ave, Silver Spring, (301) 565-9700.

Photos by Ronald Pace for The Silver Spring Penguin.