The Silver Spring Penguin

To be fair, Eggspectation (923 Ellsworth Dr) isn’t all eggs. The menu does offer burgers, salads and dessert crepes. But let’s face it: No one hits the International House of Pancakes for steak, or McDonald’s for the salads. Why would anyone hit Eggspectation for anything but eggs?

So here’s the straight dope: Eggspectation dishes decent brunch in a loud, sometimes crowded circus environment, though patio dining makes it a much more pleasant experience.

For a flavorful dose of cholesterol, the Florentine Benedict ($10) layers delicately wilted fresh spinach between a split, toasted English muffin and two poached eggs. Everything is then topped with a bright, lemony Hollandaise sauce that balances the fat content brilliantly.

According to the menu, Gruyere cheese should be sprinkled on the Florentine Benedict. However, this was not the case on two different occasions, which should have knocked off a few calories yet none of the flavor.

The California Benedict ($13, above) is something to try once but perhaps never again. Two poached eggs sit atop wilted spinach and thin slices of smoked salmon that lend an overwhelmingly greasy flavor. Add to that the thick Hollandaise sauce, limp asparagus and dry toasted wheat bread, and it’s just a wreck.

The “yoke around the clock” ($10) offers some redemption. Crisp cured bacon, two eggs to order and melted cheddar cheese lounge over a split toasted bagel. It’s good eats.

Most breakfast dishes come with firm grilled potatoes that provide a balanced carb kick, as well as a fruit garnish.

Hit Eggspectation on a Sunday for the full brunch riot. The dining room can be loud, with most of the noise generated from the overhead music system and the conversation that must rise above it.

For a more civilized experience, grab a table on the patio, where you can hear yourself think and watch downtown Silver Spring stroll by.

Eggspectation, 923 Ellsworth Dr, Silver Spring, (301) 585-1700.

Photo by Ronald Pace for The Silver Spring Penguin.