The Silver Spring Penguin

Admittedly, it may have been unfair to judge this Salvadoran restaurant on a slow, snowy weeknight. Its dark, cavernous dining room and small stage suggested it was a weekend hotspot, not a weeknight eatery. But when you’re hungry, you’re hungry.

And on this slow, snowy weeknight in Long Branch, the Penguin staff was hungry. So we hit El Gavilan (8805 Flower Ave).

The pollo asado ($11.50, above) arrived sizzling on a bed of sweet sauteed onions and topped with a jalapeno pepper. The pollo was a moist chicken cutlet, grilled until its exterior was nicely carmelized. But beyond that, the chicken lacked flavor or seasoning, as did the accompanying boiled white rice.

On the side, the pico de gallo — chopped tomatoes and onions — lacked the usual fragrant bite of fresh cilantro. And the guacamole was neither sweet nor creamy, just bland and inexplicably watery.

The chuleta de puerco — seared pork chops dressed in tomato sauce — were also moist. But the soy sauce and red vinegar used to season the pork gave it a sharp, salty taste that overwhelmed the sweet tomato sauce. Again, the accompanying boiled white rice and an iceburg-lettuce salad added nothing to the meal.

Both dishes came with pinto beans in different incarnations: gently mushed for the pollo plate, pureed for the pork plate. Neither variation had flavor, and the puree’s texture was just weird.

Despite its size, the dining room had a warm, cozy feel, thanks to recessed lighting and earth-toned walls. Sounds from an enormous, wall-mounted plasma TV clashed with the soft guitar music playing overhead, though this may not be an issue when the live band cranks it up on weekends.

The service was quick, friendly and helped The Penguin’s staff navigate the restaurant’s selection of cerveza. While the bar didn’t stock every Central American brew, it did go a few steps beyond Corona.

And unlike some spots in Long Branch, El Gavilan had onsite parking.

El Gavilan, 8805 Flower Ave, Silver Spring, (301) 587-4197.